🌊 Born by the River: The Bharathapuzha Trail
A journey through memory, mud, and the murmurs of a sacred river
By Ashok Kizhepat
📍 Introduction
In the southern folds of India, beyond the rustling coconut groves and ancient temple bells, lies a river that doesn’t shout its presence—but hums it. Bharathapuzha, known lovingly as Nila, is Kerala’s second-longest river. Yet, for those of us born by her side, she is first in our hearts.
This is not just a geographical trail. It is a pilgrimage of memory—a return to roots, to people, to silences. A walk not just along the river’s path, but along the winding course of a life once lived in its shadows.
🌱 At the Source: Anamalai Hills
Bharathapuzha begins as a soft spring in the Anamalai Hills—not far from the Tamil Nadu border. There are no grand declarations here, only a gentle whisper of water threading its way through rocks and roots.
Standing by her origin, I’m reminded of the quiet beginnings of my own story in Palakkad. Like the river, my life began unnoticed, collecting the voices of my elders, the colours of temple festivals, the smell of mango blossoms in summer.
🛕 Palakkad & Kalpathy: Where Memory Flows
As Nila glides past Walayar and Malampuzha, she strengthens. By the time she reaches Kalpathy, she is more than water—she is witness.
The Kalpathy Ratholsavam, the chariots, the chanting, the oil lamps floating on water… these are not just cultural events; they are chapters of my childhood.
"I remember walking barefoot to the ghats with my mother. The river reflected not just the sky—but our faces, our fears, and our faith."
🎭 Ottapalam & Shoranur: River of Arts and Ancestors
In the heartland of Ottapalam, Cherpulassery, and Shoranur, the river dances with culture. This is the cradle of Malayalam literature, cinema, and theatre.
I meet people who knew my family. They share stories I had forgotten—or never knew. I sit on riverbanks once walked by my uncles, cousins, teachers. The river, it seems, has kept all their stories safe.
🏞️ Thrithala: The Wide and Wounded River
As Bharathapuzha reaches Thrithala, she slows. The sands spread wide. Here, the river feels ancient—wise and tired. Sand mining has scarred her, but she carries on.
I sit here often. I write. I remember.
"The river has changed. So have I. But the bond remains—quiet, unbreakable."
🌊 Ponnani: Where the River Meets the Sea
At last, the river merges with the Arabian Sea at Ponnani. The smell of salt replaces the scent of silt. The language shifts. So does the rhythm.
It is here that my journey ends. Or begins again.
Fishermen return. The sky turns gold. The river, after her long journey, surrenders herself to something larger. I feel the same—lighter, complete.
💬 Reflections: Why This Trail Matters
This trail is more than nostalgia. It is about reconnection—with the land, with the past, with oneself.
For anyone born near a river, there is a longing that never quite dries up. The river becomes a symbol: of childhood, of flow, of everything that changes yet remains.
"In tracing her path, I have rediscovered my own."
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