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The Chronicles of Pâlghât


In the mid-18th century, the region of Pâlghât (modern-day Palakkad) was a flourishing settlement at the intersection of trade and military strategy. Nestled amidst the Western Ghats, this town was destined to play a pivotal role in the history of Malabar. In 1757, when the mighty troops of Haidar Ali first marched into Pâlghât, they laid the foundations of a fort that would shape the town's future. Situated at the southeastern corner of the cantonment, the fort was a symbol of military power with its square design, flanked by round bastions and sturdy curtains. A wide ditch—21 feet deep and 15 feet broad—surrounded the fort, making it an impenetrable stronghold for a time.

However, the shifting tides of history saw the fort falling into British hands on November 15, 1783, when Colonel Fullarton’s troops overran Haidar’s garrison. After a heavy downpour weakened the enemy's defenses, the British, led by Sir Thomas Maitland, seized their chance. Fullarton’s forces surged through the gateways, striking fear into the garrison. In the confusion of the morning light, a conversation took place across the ditch, and soon, the fort was surrendered. It mounted 60 cannons of various calibres, but none could save it from being converted into a prison by the British in 1878.

By the late 19th century, Pâlghât had developed into a key town in Malabar. A great shift had taken place: from being a battleground, the town had become a thriving center of commerce. At its heart were the bustling public buildings—the Municipal school, the District Munsif’s Court, and the Sub-Judge’s Court. The Roman Catholic and Protestant Churches, alongside the Municipal hospital, laid the foundation of a community steeped in culture and care. There was even an Assistant Police Superintendent’s office, and a Post Office which helped in maintaining connections with the wider world.

The town was a hub for trade, particularly in tobacco, food grains, and textiles. But what Pâlghât was most famous for were its “Pulliyâpûla” grass mats, known as Palghat mats, which were sought after across the region. Alongside this, the cultivation of dry grains and the export of timber, particularly teak, made the town an important stop along the trade routes. The 19 Brahmin settlements, called “grâmas,” added a distinct cultural and religious flavor to the community.

Beyond the walls of the town lay the forests of Walîâr. These jungles, before the arrival of the railway, were notorious for their wild game. Tigers and elephants roamed the dense undergrowth, and hunting expeditions frequently took place. The dense, fever-ridden jungle posed a danger, however, and during the months from June to November, the forest was inaccessible due to the deadly fever that swept through the area.

As the railway line carved through the landscape, the town transformed. Pâlghât, once known for its impenetrable fort, now became a gateway. The population swelled to 30,752, with the majority being Hindus, while a small but notable presence of Muslims, Europeans, and Eurasians added to the town’s cosmopolitan atmosphere. Despite these changes, the essence of Pâlghât remained grounded in its traditions—its temples, its bustling market squares, and the rhythm of life dictated by the seasons and the rains.

Thus, from its origins as a fortified military town to its growth into a commercial hub, Pâlghât’s history mirrored the wider changes taking place in the Malabar region. It was a place where the weight of history met the vitality of the present, a town that, even today, holds within it the echoes of a storied past.

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